The Chambertin, described by Madame Rousseau as 'imperturbable' for its ability to always negotiate well the vagaries of each vintage, is again aristocratic and fine in 2004. The bouquet offers up a fine mélange of black cherries, plums, grilled meats, mustard seed, deep Gevrey minerality, cocoa powder, toasty oak and a distinct topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and beautifully balanced, with a rock solid core of fruit, perfect focus, and a very long, tangy and ripely tannic finish. This too has just a whiff of pepper on the finish, but I would be surprised if this is just not a youthful attribute of the wine. - JG
JG95January 2006