After 20 minutes of air, this really begins to open to reveal beautiful and ripe citrus, white peach and pear aromas that complement the succulent yet detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good verve on the clean, dry and mouth coating finish. Not surprisingly this is less mineral-inflected than the Perrières but there is actually better depth if not the finesse. There is one small nit which is a bit of backend warmth but it's quite subtle and certainly not enough to impair the overall sense of balance. A qualitative choice. - BH
BH90
Pale color with green highlights. Spicy and fresh for Goutte d'Or, with aromas of soft citrus fruits and minerals complicated by a leesy nuance. Then suppler in the middle than the village offering, but with firm acidity giving shape and thrust to the honey and spice flavors. Nicely long on the dense, saline, brisk aftertaste, which throws off notes of lemon, peach and hazelnut. Gaunoux told me that this wine has gotten more minerally in recent years. "There haven't been changes in winemaking, but it may be a matter or earlier picking," he explained. - VM
VM91